Community Cat FAQs

Feed the cats consistently before trapping. We suggest feeding for several weeks twice per day at the same time. Pick up the food after feeding for an hour. Do not feed cats at night because it attracts wildlife. After the cats are on a consistent feeding schedule, the trapping may begin. Please view the brochure for additional information.

For the safety of the cats and the FACE staff, each cat should be in its own carrier or live trap.  If the cat is friendly, you can purchase cardboard carriers for $8 at our front desk or we can lend you plastic carriers to bring cats to the clinic.  If you are unable to get the cat into a carrier, a live trap is suggested (see below).

A Safeguard 30x11x12 trap is a recommended trap.

Cats in heat are safe to spay! It is important to prevent litters from being born.

Cats can become pregnant while nursing! Therefore, it is important to spay as soon as possible, even while mom is nursing. Mom will continue to nurse her kittens, even after spay. As long as the kittens are at least three weeks old, it is safe to spay mom.

We spay pregnant cats. Shelters cannot save and support the HUGE number of accidental litters, stray and family cats brought to their doors every day. Spaying a pregnant cat is safe and the right thing to do.

Our community cat package costs $40 per cat/kitten. This includes spay/neuter, vaccines, and a mandatory ear tip to show this has been done.

If the $40 fee poses an issue, please let us know. We may be able to provide limited financial assistance depending on availability. Payment is expected at the time of drop off. FACE accepts cash, debit card, Visa, MasterCard, and Discover.

We do not relocate cats. The Marion County ordinance allows for community cats and does not require that a cat have a known owner or a caretaker.  We will return any cat that qualifies for the program where it was captured or trapped. The cats know their neighborhood and it is very tricky to relocate a cat. Feral cats are not adoption candidates and do not belong in the shelter.

You must be enrolled in our community cat program to receive a limited amount of discounted flea medication. Medication can be purchased at the FACE front desk during regular clinic hours Monday through Saturday. Limit 20 doses.

We do not FIV/FeLV test community cats because our primary purpose is sterilization to reduce population, which secondarily prevents nuisance behaviors, disease spread, sickness and euthanasia. The way to stop the spread of disease is stopping the mating, fighting, procreating, and malnutrition. Although there are health risks, recent studies now show FIV does not shorten a cat’s lifespan compared to non-FIV cats. If a caregiver is transitioning a community cat to be an indoor, owned cat, FACE can do testing for $25.

Not at this time.  Please contact a full service clinic such as West Michigan Street Veterinary Clinic at 3811 W. Michigan St. Indianapolis, IN 46222, 317-757-5694 or All Pet Health Care by Noah’s at 3825 West Washington Street, Indianapolis, IN  46241, 317-481-1738.

When there is a supply of shelters, they will be stored in three locations: Indianapolis Animal Care Services (IACS) at 2600 S. Harding St. FACE Lost-Cost Animal Clinic at 1505 Massachusetts Ave., Indianapolis, IN 46201. Fido (Friends of Indianapolis Dogs Outside) at 1505 N. Sherman Drive, Indianapolis 46201. You can pick up a shelter by submitting a request to Indy Neighborhood Cats.

There are websites online that take you through the steps of building outdoor cat shelters.  Some things to keep in mind:

• How many shelters do I need? Unless you operate a managed colony, do not underestimate the number of cats in your area. You may only see one or two cats, but there are probably more. Try to provide more shelter space than you imagine needing.
• What bedding should I use? Thick straw bedding allows the cats to “nest” and curl up into heat-conserving positions with the bedding providing a windbreak and insulator. In some cases, tacking strips of cloth over the shelter openings can provide additional protection from drafts, but it may make cats less likely to enter.  In very harsh conditions, caretakers may wish to provide weatherproof doghouse heating pads. These are constructed of sealed, heavy plastic with damage-resistant cords. (Only use these if you can safely run power to the unit using a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI). The GFCI will disconnect the power in the event of a short circuit or damage to the cord.) When plugging a heater cord into an extension cord, make sure the connection does not lay on the ground where it might be prone to water. Special waterproof extension cords are available at hardware stores.

Where should I put the cat shelter(s)?  Locating the shelter is also an important topic. Neutral and earth tones to blend with the environment. Shelters should be located away from areas of vehicle & foot traffic. Locating it in a wooded area or in the margin of a wooded area is ideal. This provides cover from the elements and makes the shelter less obvious. In urban areas, locate the shelter behind buildings or bushes. Cats will avoid a shelter if they are disturbed there regularly. Position the cat shelter to block the entrances from receiving direct wind and rain/snow. In central Indiana, the prevailing winds are usually from the south and the west. It may also be helpful to place sturdy building materials adjacent to the entrance to provide additional wind protection (about 12″ from the entrance). Make sure that if you place anything over or around the shelter that it is anchored firmly and will not blow or fall over in front of the entrance.

In Marion County, it is legal to feed cats as long as the caretaker is getting the cats fixed and preventing the cats from being a nuisance. You can review all ordinances for Marion County/City of Indianapolis online.

Animal cruelty and neglect are against the law! If you witness any type of animal abuse, please contact your local police department or animal control organization. If you are in Marion County, please submit an online request for an Animal Control Officer through the Mayor’s Action Center.

Staying on good terms with your neighbors may be a concern when you have a cat colony. If cats are causing problems in your neighbors’ yards, gardens or bird feeders, this may create tension between you and your neighbors.

We find it is helpful to respect their opinions and offer to work with them to keep the cats out. Fortunately, there are many safe and effective solutions to these problems. First, talk to your neighbor! Find out if the cat is a pet or stray and if it has been neutered. If it is not neutered, you can take care of that with the help of FACE Low Cost Animal Clinic (link to contact info or appointment request form).

Here are some common complaints you may near from neighbors and some solutions:

Cats are digging in my garden! Your neighbor can use deterrents in the garden: scatter fresh orange/lemon peels, citrus-scented sprays, coffee grounds, cayenne pepper, vinegar, pipe tobacco, lavender oil, peppermint oil, lemon grass, citronella and eucalyptus, all deter cats! In the garden, place chicken wire, plastic sheets or plastic carpet runners spike-side up, covered lightly with soil. You can remove these later, after cats stop visiting.

Cats are sleeping under my porch or in my shed! Refer to the list above of natural repellents Apply these fragrances liberally around the edges of the porch or shed. Place physical barriers such as chicken wire or lattice. Be sure to check for kittens first! Provide an alternative shelter such as a plastic bin or doghouse and place it in a secluded area away from porches and sheds.

Cats are getting into my trashcans! Hungry cats are looking for food. Place trash bags inside cans, not sitting outside to be torn open by dogs or raccoons. Make sure lids fit tightly on cans. Feed cats yourself if no one is feeding them. If they have enough food to eat, they will leave trash alone.

My car has paw prints on it! Make sure you move your feeding stations and shelters away from driveways and parking areas.

Cats are fighting, yowling, spraying, roaming and having kittens! These are mating behaviors that are typical of cats that have not been altered. These problems stop once the cats are spayed and neutered. Contact FACE to get started (link to appointment request page). For urine odors, spray the area with white vinegar or products that have natural enzymes such as Nature’s Miracle or PDZ Horse Stall Refresher. All are available at local pet supply or feed supply stores.

Cats are attracting wildlife such as raccoons! Do not leave food out at night! Only feed during the day and pick up excess food so you do not attract other animals.

Do you have a plan for your Community Cats when you are unable to take care of them? Finding a substitute caretaker is important for life’s unexpected challenges, from becoming ill to leaving on vacation. If you are the sole caretaker of your community cats, do not hesitate to start searching for a substitute.

Start with people who know about your cats and may be willing to volunteer. Ask neighbors, friends, and family. Find others in your area who are caring for cats and see if they might be willing to help.

Give the substitute caretaker a photo of each cat and the medical history. Let them know the details of your feeding schedule and ongoing care.

Decide on a caretaking arrangement. If the substitute caretaker cannot help financially, you might need to stock up on food, medicine, etc. You will need to decide which vet to use and whether this will be at your expense or the substitute caretaker’s.

Do everything you can to avoid having the cats relocated! Relocating is only an option in an extreme situation, such as when their lives might be in danger. It is hard on the cats and rarely successful.

You may feel that no one can fill your shoes when it comes to your Community Cats care, but finding a substitute you trust will give you extra assurance that the cats have the proper care.

Relocation is a process of moving a stray or feral cat from its current outdoor home to a new place. It is a labor-intensive process and often has a low success rate. Cats are territorial and remaining in their current habitat is optimal for their health and safety. There are things that can go wrong when people try to relocate a colony of cats. Cats often disappear in a new location, or they die trying to return to the old location.

The following situations may warrant relocation:

• The lives of the cats are being threatened in a way that cannot be legally remedied
• The colony is located on public or private property that will not allow the colony to be maintained
• Their home or shelter is being destroyed and it is impossible to provide an alternative shelter at their current habitat or migration of the cats within a reasonable distance is not possible.
• There is no identified caretaker

Rationale: Stray and feral cats become well adapted to their territory and can live safely and contentedly in alleyways, parking lots, vacant lots, backyards and other locations – urban, suburban and rural. The present home of a feral colony is the best place for the cats since they likely have been living there for their entire life. It is the only home they know. Colony cats develop very strong bonds with each other, their present territory and caretaker. Moving them to a new location is like tearing a family apart. This results in stress, loneliness, fear and depression.

The following cats have the lowest chance of relocation success:

• Cats that are very feral
• Moving too few cats together from the same colony
• Cats relocated by themselves
• Kittens under 6 months relocated without a mother

If it is determined relocation is necessary, following these guidelines may increase the chance of success:

• Find a safe and permanent home site with a caretaker committed to providing life-long feeding, watering, medical care and monitoring of the cats.
• Identify a room or secure area that is clean, quiet, temperature controlled and protects the cats from the elements as much as possible. Be sure there is adequate air and light available.
• Other items needed will include a wire dog crate (minimum size of 2 ft x 3 ft.) litter, litter pans, food and water bowls, a small carrier for the cat to hide in and sheets to cover the crate to help reduce the cats stress.
• Cats should be confined where they can see and smell their new surroundings (especially other cats, the caretaker and the feeding station)
• Cats must be confined in their crate for a minimum of 2 weeks at the new site to acclimate and identify with its new location and caretaker before release
• Cats must receive daily care, food, water and litter box cleaning

Tips to increase the chance for successful relocation:

• Cats relocate best when paired with another cat. House them together in one large crate.
• During the first day or two, the cats may struggle to find a way out (especially at night). They will calm down in a day or two after they realize that they will not be harmed
• Feed on a regular schedule preferably twice a day (wet and dry)
• Keep the relocation crate covered with a sheet to reduce stress
• Rattle the food in a box or bowl each time you feed so the cats associate the sound with food
• Make frequent (minimum twice daily) verbal attempts to bond with the cats
• If a cat escapes during the confinement period, leave food and water out, and sprinkle their used litter around the area (for scent). Cats often hide for a period, but will stay close. Leave food and water to prevent them from leaving in search of food
• When the cats are ready for release, continue feeding in the same area and on the same schedule as before.
• Typically cats will run and hide after initial release